A look that seems inspired by the women's empire waist, belts and other accessories above the hip line are a new trend in menswear for spring/summer 2011. Though not all took the high-waisted approach, an emphasis on a man's waist was a common thread amongst the major collections. The image this conjures is less flattering than the reality. A major selling point is that depending on the placement of the garment, it will cinch in just the right spot to give you that always desirable "v" shape to your back, chest and torso. This is of course dependent on pairing the look with a well fitted shirt. Otherwise you will end up with unflattering excess fabric spilling over the waistline. Some things you need to know when tackling this very attainable style are:
Know your true waistline
When men buy pants, we generally buy them based on the the waist size just beneath the hip bone and navel. Your true waist however is the circumference of your mid section just above your hip bone. Resting the belt, cummerbund or other accessory on your true waist may feel awkward at first but know that the look can be paired with a very downplayed ensemble that will help to ease you into the trend. This placement is what separates this from simply wearing a belt.
You have options
- The skinny belt: If you prefer a little more subtlety than a cummerbund, you can opt for the skinny belt. The trick to this is ensuring that the belt has enough room to circle you twice or else you may end up with an 80s style ski bunny feel. Gaultier went this route in a roman inspired number (loose fitting capris that could have doubled as a skort and a matching twilight blue button down that seemed to bleed into one another) and the contrast created a spirited, summer-ready style. The key to pulling this one off with as much masculinity as possible is to keep the pants simple, and avoid anything thigh hugging. Khakis and loose fitting, knee length shorts will give you the look without sacrificing your manliness.
- Cummerbunds: This does not mean digging up the cummerbund in which you got married 15 years ago; there is a trick to this. The garment should be ruffle free, ideally black, and should be a very snug fit. Pairing the cummerbund with a standard, tapered khaki and a black fitted button up manages to keep this look from grabbing the wrong kind of attention. This style is party perfect but unlike the other recommendations, is not ideal for day wear. See Cerruti's take on this from the spring/summer 2011 collection for a very easy to follow guideline.
- Rope belt: This differs from the skinny belt in that it is perhaps less versatile. The rope belt is a great high-waisted look because many will offer a few inches of excess rope to dangle loosely from the knot, creating a hip and somewhat flippant approach to the trend. It offers the same effect where the cinch is concerned, however you are limited to more casual and somewhat military inspired clothing. John Galliano paired the rope belt with a 1940s paperboy meets Oliver Twist ensemble inclusive of the traditional paperboy cap but the addition of a hobo inspired navy blazer. The look comes off as bit costume like on the runway, but on street level the pants could be substituted for blue jeans making it less theatrical and more arty guy meets style guru.
- High waisted trench: The trench is likely the easiest way to be a trend follower without having to alter your personal style and without having to draw attention to the fact that perhaps there is a little more of you protruding from under that high-waisted belt than your gym regime should allow. The majority of trench coats are designed with a belt that rests on your true waist and this is a feature that has remained true through generations of style innovation. Basically you have been given the opportunity to appear as a full scale fashion plate by simply throwing on your existing trench and ensuring that what lies beneath is well put together enough to sustain the illusion when the coat comes off. One thing to note is that the trench should be proportionate to your current measurements or else you will miss the mark. Fitted through the arms and body enough that when you pull that belt in, the look is a clean cut.
Sources
VMAN, Issue 20, Winter, 2010/2011
Homme Essential, January/February, 2011
Scott Godwin - Scott Godwin is a 32 year old downtown dweller in the city of Toronto. With an education in Advertising and Public Relations, his career ...
